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The story that begins as a farmer’s fight with a multinational corporation for his right to farm his land uncontaminated by genetically modified neighboring seed and ends with questions for all mankind —

• who is preserving seed for future generations?
  
• once genetic modifications enter the environment does it forever alter our food sources?
  
• once terminator seeds enter the environment what will prevent the unintended contamination and ultimate destruction of other species?
• how do you know if you’re eating genetically modified food?
  
• how does the funding of our country’s land grant universities by these multinational agricultural corporations impact the critical research of our nation’s food supply?
  
• who owns life?

I am mystified. How did we get here? As oil tightens its grip, and people’s homes foreclose, water becoming scarce and the state of our food industry in question, I ask, how did we get here? As this blog touches both on the growing of food and the consumption of food, I thought I would share with you my own recent journeys.

Local, Organic, Sustainable Food

This used to be our way of life. All food was nutritious, organic and (minus something like citrus) above all else, local. I was chatting with a friend who grew up on a farm in Indiana with 9 brothers and sisters. She said what we now call local and organic they used to call “poor… poor people’s food.” They would grow their own, raise their own, butcher their own and can their own. The local market or grocer was the purview of a higher socio-economic status.

But at the same time she spoke ironically about the current state of the industry she also spoke fondly of her mother as she told me the story of how her brothers built her mom shelves where she could display her pretty canning jars filled with her hard work. Now she too is revisiting this tradition passed down by her mother and is discovering the convenience of canning while not compromising on the quality of the food inside the jar. The simple pleasure of this act creates new memories for her family, too.

Food for Thought

I recently attended a symposium on food here in Indianapolis sponsored by the Indiana Humanities Council, Food For Thought. The documentary, Homegrown, was screened during breakfast and then 3 breakout sessions were offered.

I chose Supply Chain Strategies, The Future of Sustainable Farming, and a panel discussion with local growers and restaurateurs on the topic of buying local. The conference was packed. The first presenter, Professor Kurt Froehlich from the Kelley School of Business with Indiana University, asked how many attendees had seen Food, Inc. Almost everyone raised their hands, including me.

Food, Inc.

First, let me say I had no idea what to expect from this documentary. I had not heard the “buzz” or the controversy and I confess, I kind of expected it was going to be a little more “PETA” oriented. And while you can’t ignore the plight of the livestock as the documentary covers some aspects of our food economy, cruelty to animals really isn’t the focus of the documentary. But rather the “false” economies created by a handful of companies and the federal government. A system that we as consumers seem to be completely unaware of.

The documentary points out we are actually contributing to the poor health of our nation, particularly the poorest of our nation. We’re capable of making cheap crappy food that will lead to obesity, diabetes and all manner of heart related issues. Why then are we not having a discussion about the state of our food industry in conjunction with the healthcare debate? If we have to subsidize food (?), why wouldn’t we choose to subsidize healthy, fresh, sustainable, accessible food.

I have friends that live in farming communities. They regularly source their proteins from their own neighbors. But they wonder how a small processing plant can stay in business when the FDA regulates inspectors must be present for all kills and yet there are not enough FDA inspectors to visit the smaller processors but somehow the largest conglomerates responsible for processing 90% of the protein we consume in this country flourish? As our conference presenter pointed out, the documentary spends less time on distribution and retail where the additional “body blows” are finally dealt and we blindly experience at the point of sale.

Update 3/30/2010: Push to Eat Local Food is Hampered by Shortage, @nytimes, on too great a demand for local protein and not enough slaughter houses to process the product.

Why don’t we care? I guess, is really my question.

As I sat through a presentation by the farm manager from Traders Point Creamery who talked about sustainable farming I learned that a cow is meant biologically to eat grass and we feed it corn for the sole purpose that it will grow fatter, quicker (which in turn then happens to us) and the consumption of that corn changes the ph balance in the cow to the extent that it dramatically shortens it’s life, compromises its health (which in turn then happens to us). Hence we have to feed it antibiotics (which end up in us) and breeds pathogens that heretofore didn’t exist (certain strains of eColi) that they poop out and then stand in for their entire life until they’re covered in it when they go to slaughter…guess where it ends up? Would you build such a process today?

On the other hand, grass-fed beef doesn’t require antibiotics, doesn’t require feed, their manure isn’t contaminated nor does it need to be hauled away as it fertilizes the very pastures they feed upon. The beef is leaner (and therefore we are too) and the dairy cows, for example, live longer and healthier lives and produce healthier products. Check out American Grass-fed or Eat Wild for more information. How is this more expensive? How is this undesirable? Marketers have you convinced that you prefer a fatter cut of meat or that you have to have homogenized milk. Are they right or have you even tried the alternative to know?

What can you do?

Of course there are things you can do. Cook more at home. Not only will you gain the satisfaction of providing a good healthy meal for your family, you’ll spend time with your family, create valuable learning experiences as you pass down cooking skills and respect for food to your children — and hey, the leftovers can stretch to lunch or the next evening’s dinner.

This used to be the “norm” but over the years the concept of the leftover grew into a negative commentary about your economic status. Leftovers were disdained. But hey, frugal is de rigueur once again (why or why did it ever go out of fashion you’re asking yourselves now.) I cook most of our meals including brewing our own coffee and making lunches — and guess what? I spend less than the national average to feed my family.

That doesn’t mean my commitment to eating local and organic whenever possible has been easy. My husband, for one, would prefer I spend less money on food and purchase the cheaper milk or bread or cereal. I point out his high cholesterol and family predisposition for diabetes and hand him him his organic whole grain cereal (which he feels is like chewing hay) with organic skim milk.

Grow a garden.

I have a wonderful, but modest raised bed garden. I am amazed at how much I can produce. Canning is next on my list to learn. (Let me know if you have any good resources online or local.) Or you can participate in a community garden if you don’t have access to your own dirt. Seeds are cheap and water, for now, readily available (see My Spring Garden for just a few online resources). Shop a farmers market or join a CSA. Buying from local producers is casting a vote for the food you do want to consume. Vote with your dollar by buying organic at the store. Buy local and your dollars stay in the local economy and spur more growth.

Take heart. In the last conference session I listened to a local grower along with restaurateurs confirm what I had suspected. There is greater demand than supply. There are not enough local resources to meet the demands of the market! So we have farmers markets, CSA’s or buying direct and now another resource coming to the Indy market, a new co-op committed to offering only locally sourced food. Maybe the tide is turning. Hopefully, other participants in the food chain will revisit the policies and practices that have gotten us here and make changes that are win-wins for everyone.

I am determined that this year, we’ll be growing the fruit and vegetables, especially the varietals, that we really love or are interested in exploring. Once my wishlist is set, then I have to determine whether it’s better to order them from seed or seedling. Are they available organic? What equipment will I need to begin growing seeds indoors and then the timeline. I am determined to create and post my progress on growing my seeds indoors as well as a garden planting (transplanting) time table.

My Wishlist, seeds or seedling:

• english peas
• haricot vert
• onions: sweet, cipollini, shallots, leaks
• tomatoes, several varieties: grape, black krim, brandywine, roma
• raspberries
• strawberries
• fingerling potatoes
• herbs: tarragon, thyme, oregano, sage, flat leaf parsley, basil, chives, lemongrass, rosemary

I’ve narrowed down my sources to the following:

• Seed Savers Exchange: for all things heirloom and organic
• White Flower Farms: for seedlings (and awesome perennials)
• The Cook’s Garden: impressive selection of gourmet greens and microgreens

Off I go on my crisp Saturday morning, out the court, out of the neighborhood, down the road to the village, where I navigate the narrow shady avenues until I reach my destination, near the Dairy Queen of course. I dismount with my coffee enjoying every sip and sight my eyes encompass. There in front of me are little tents, different shapes, sizes and colors, with the vendors ready, not only to sell their fresh produce, but tell you a little bit about the product, their farms, and what will be coming in the seasons ahead.

Around I go to the little stalls. I have my methodology. Reconnaissance first. I always travel once around the market to see who has the best corn (sweet), tomatoes (heirloom), spring onions and garlic, berries (how I love the berries), the melon man (who always has a line wrapped around the lot) — he services everyone, one at a time with a smile and chat as he dispenses his prized sweet, juicy, orbs. There are baked goods galore, a honey man, somebody selling Mouse Oil (?), and pasta. Maybe it will be twice around today…

My partner in crime is my mom. Saturday mornings have become a ritual for us. Mom and Dad have lived in Zionsville for some time. I am a newbie, having only moved to this side of town within the last 4 years. I’ve never felt more at home and it didn’t take me very long to understand what a special place this was. It’s a secret I’m not too sure I want to share with “outsiders” because part of the character of Zionsville is its size, truly a small, charming village. I’m happy for you to visit, but …

Back to the market. I have a weekly budget. I’ve eyed the produce I want, mentally calculating to maximize my “take” with the cash I have. Now it’s time to move in and begin purchasing. I’d like to say that I remember every week to bring my Farmers Market bag. But sometimes I forget. I am really not a morning person. I just make myself on Saturdays during the season because what awaits me motivates me. Otherwise, those closest to me know not to even bother talking to me until I’ve had 2 cups of coffee and my morning writing is complete.

But I am in rare form now and I’m determined to get really choice product. You see you have to go early if you want to make sure, for instance, that the pasta lady doesn’t run out her exceptional basil pasta. The thought of it makes me swoon. I make a killer fresh tomato sauce in the summer time that I toss her basil pasta in and, well, there are no words. Anyway, I am determined to secure my produce for the week.

I have become, in the last few years, an advocate of buying local and as organic as possible, a locavore. Local because I want to support the farming community and I know where my produce has come from (just up the road). I know how far it’s traveled and I know how fresh it really is. Secondly, the more I cook the more I realize that organic really does taste better. It’s better for you and better for the environment.

Juggling bags, squeezing produce, justifying the unexpected, I maneuver around the market until I’m out of cash. I am happy. And I can’t wait to get it home and eat it. Mom and I finish our coffees, hug, and I’m off. I may have to peddle a little harder as there is now additional weight to push. No matter, it’s good for my heart.

Back home, I carefully wash my prizes and decide how to store them. Pasta, unless I plan to cook it that night, goes into the freezer. I store them in individual twists so that no matter the head count, I can pull exactly the right amount out of the freezer each time. (like those individually packaged boneless, skinless chicken breasts — brilliant idea and how come no one thought of it sooner?) Now I plot my use of the produce — which recipes I will make and when. Those berries weigh heavy on my mind. I am a pie baker and when the blackberries are fresh and in season it’s like I’m in heat. I can not be reasoned with. I must bake pie.

Now the market serves a greater purpose than just my own appetite. Like the components of a quilt coming together to create a beautiful and functional garment, the market is one of Zionvilles’ charms that adds to its character and is very much a part of many lives here. The market is booming with people not only purchasing, but socializing. Bringing the family pet is another common sight at the market. You’d think there’d be mayhem with so many animals. But there’s not. I’ve never witnessed a single dog dispute.

I prepare myself in September for the end. The last Saturday. I purchase, as much as possible, that which will freeze. This year I am going to attempt canning. I am a little intimidated. I sat thru a lecture on botulism. But I’ve been assured by some women older and wiser than I, who have been canning for years, that if I start with fairly acidic stuff I ought to be okay…

I will miss the market immediately. Saturday mornings become an adjustment. I’ll get used to it by the end of October. By then I’m plotting my Thanksgiving strategy. The holidays quickly follow and keep me preoccupied. But when I’m alone with my thoughts in the cold winter months and I see those hot house tomatoes in the store I’m both wistful and irritated. Seed catalogs do little to soothe my restlessness. By March I’m pensive. By April anxious. And by May, well remember I referenced being in heat earlier…